 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
XBOX 360 REPAIR SERVICE
There are four light sections that make up the dreaded red
ring of death or RROD for short. They're not numbered on
the Xbox console but for reference here and around the
Internet they're read from left to right - top to bottom, so
in this example lights 1,3 and 4 are lit up.
Note: Four lights means an AV problem so always make
sure your cable is in, the contacts are clean, and try a
different cable too if you have access to one.
ring of death or RROD for short. They're not numbered on
the Xbox console but for reference here and around the
Internet they're read from left to right - top to bottom, so
in this example lights 1,3 and 4 are lit up.
Note: Four lights means an AV problem so always make
sure your cable is in, the contacts are clean, and try a
different cable too if you have access to one.
something's wrong with either the console, the power brick or one of the cables.
Sometimes it'll give an error code on the TV screen like E74 or E73. These codes are there
an indication of what exactly it is that needs to be fixed or replaced. You can also look
these codes up yourself on the Internet and usually get a good idea of what it means.
There's a secondary code you can usually get out of an RROD Xbox too that also helps
narrow down the cause of the problem. Just like the diagnostics set-up on newer cars you
can press the "sync up" button and "eject" and the red ring will blink out a set of four
numbers - all between zero and three - four flashing lights is a zero then 1,2, and 3.
Sync-up is the small round button in the middle of the console that you press to connect a
wireless controller to the 360. When the XBox is turned on and showing an RROD you press
and hold the sync-up button and then press eject four times whilst still holding the sync-up
button down. This will probably take a few tries and often only works with a 3-light RROD
but it's always worth a shot. Pressing the sync-up button you then press eject as well and
the red ring will flash 1,2,3, or 4 lights, let up on the eject button and press again to get the
second number, then the third and fourth. The good folks at xbox-scene.com have a good
listing of what the codes mean here.
The most common errors are those that show two red lights - #1 and #3 - which generally
means an overheating problem, and three red lights - #1, 3 and 4 (as shown), which means
a general hardware problem. Both of these are usually due to a problem with either the
central processing unit (CPU) or the graphics processing unit (GPU). These are the hardest
working microchips in the console and therefore the ones that get the hottest during use.
They're both soldered to the motherboard with large heatsinks sitting on top of them which
help keep them cool just like in a standard computer.
Sometimes it'll give an error code on the TV screen like E74 or E73. These codes are there
an indication of what exactly it is that needs to be fixed or replaced. You can also look
these codes up yourself on the Internet and usually get a good idea of what it means.
There's a secondary code you can usually get out of an RROD Xbox too that also helps
narrow down the cause of the problem. Just like the diagnostics set-up on newer cars you
can press the "sync up" button and "eject" and the red ring will blink out a set of four
numbers - all between zero and three - four flashing lights is a zero then 1,2, and 3.
Sync-up is the small round button in the middle of the console that you press to connect a
wireless controller to the 360. When the XBox is turned on and showing an RROD you press
and hold the sync-up button and then press eject four times whilst still holding the sync-up
button down. This will probably take a few tries and often only works with a 3-light RROD
but it's always worth a shot. Pressing the sync-up button you then press eject as well and
the red ring will flash 1,2,3, or 4 lights, let up on the eject button and press again to get the
second number, then the third and fourth. The good folks at xbox-scene.com have a good
listing of what the codes mean here.
The most common errors are those that show two red lights - #1 and #3 - which generally
means an overheating problem, and three red lights - #1, 3 and 4 (as shown), which means
a general hardware problem. Both of these are usually due to a problem with either the
central processing unit (CPU) or the graphics processing unit (GPU). These are the hardest
working microchips in the console and therefore the ones that get the hottest during use.
They're both soldered to the motherboard with large heatsinks sitting on top of them which
help keep them cool just like in a standard computer.
The problem is in how the microchips are attached to the motherboard. Under each chip there are hundreds of very
tiny solder points and if any one of these points develops a crack that particular point can no longer make contact with
the motherboard and the chip can't do it's job. The CPU and GPU chips are the heart and soul basically of the whole
system so they have to be 100% operable and stable at all times.
Another problem is with the "X" clamps that hold the two heatsinks in place - the way they're made and the pressure
where the solder point has cracked and the attached chip (which doesn't warp) can't make the proper electrical
contact needed to perform it's job. There's more about this on the Xbox 360 "tricks" page along with information on
possible repair options. I personally don't attempt to repair consoles with solder-related motherboard problems as
there's just no way I can properly and permanently fix the entire motherboard.
Lastly, there's a product called "thermal paste" that goes in between each chip and the heatsink sitting on top of it.
The objective is to get as much contact as possible between chip and heatsink so the maximum amount of heat can be
drawn off the chip and eventually be blown out of the console by the case fans. Thermal paste varies greatly in quality
which is especially noticeable after it's been on for a few years. Some brands tend to dry up over time or even squeeze
itself out of the gap altogether with all the repeated heating up and cooling off it does. The quality of the thermal paste
used makes a big difference in how well the heatsinks do their job - now and especially later on down the track. For
my repairs I use IC7 carat diamond thermal paste which in itself makes for a 4 degree C lower operating temperature
versus the Arctic Silver 5 or "AS5" silver based paste you might have seen mentioned around the Internet. There's an
even bigger temperature difference between that and the really cheap thermal pastes that are sometimes sent out
along with the do-it-yourself X-clamp repair kits you might have come across. I'm happy to help with this sort of repair
as I know for sure that once the overheating problem is fixed it'll stay that way for the lifetime of the console.
tiny solder points and if any one of these points develops a crack that particular point can no longer make contact with
the motherboard and the chip can't do it's job. The CPU and GPU chips are the heart and soul basically of the whole
system so they have to be 100% operable and stable at all times.
Another problem is with the "X" clamps that hold the two heatsinks in place - the way they're made and the pressure
where the solder point has cracked and the attached chip (which doesn't warp) can't make the proper electrical
contact needed to perform it's job. There's more about this on the Xbox 360 "tricks" page along with information on
possible repair options. I personally don't attempt to repair consoles with solder-related motherboard problems as
there's just no way I can properly and permanently fix the entire motherboard.
Lastly, there's a product called "thermal paste" that goes in between each chip and the heatsink sitting on top of it.
The objective is to get as much contact as possible between chip and heatsink so the maximum amount of heat can be
drawn off the chip and eventually be blown out of the console by the case fans. Thermal paste varies greatly in quality
which is especially noticeable after it's been on for a few years. Some brands tend to dry up over time or even squeeze
itself out of the gap altogether with all the repeated heating up and cooling off it does. The quality of the thermal paste
used makes a big difference in how well the heatsinks do their job - now and especially later on down the track. For
my repairs I use IC7 carat diamond thermal paste which in itself makes for a 4 degree C lower operating temperature
versus the Arctic Silver 5 or "AS5" silver based paste you might have seen mentioned around the Internet. There's an
even bigger temperature difference between that and the really cheap thermal pastes that are sometimes sent out
along with the do-it-yourself X-clamp repair kits you might have come across. I'm happy to help with this sort of repair
as I know for sure that once the overheating problem is fixed it'll stay that way for the lifetime of the console.
SHIPPING I use USPS Priority Mail for returning the repaired consoles back to their owners. This is about $20 for an
Xbox 360 and between $20-$30 for a PS3 and this will be included in the estimated price quote I give you via email
before I accept the console in for repair.
WARRANTY All repairs/replacements are warrantied for 6 months. That means the replaced or repaired part will
work perfectly when you get it back and will continue to do so for 6 months.
DIAGNOSIS IS A COMPLETELY FREE SERVICE Sometimes there's more damage than meets the eye I don't charge a
dime if you choose not to go ahead with the repair. This happens occasionally tand it's just the nature of the business.
TURNAROUND Turnaround time varies of course but most repairs are completed within 2-3 days of receipt unless it's
around Christmas which is nearer 10-12 days.
PAYMENTS Paypal handles all online payments, any standard debit/credit card will work and you don't have to have
an account with them at all, they just process the cards and eChecks for me same as any other merchant account. This
way nobody here has access to your financial information at any point, it's all handled 100% securely by them. Mailing
payment's fine too if you prefer - either along with the console or separately.
If you'd like me to handle your repair I'll be happy to do so if at all possible. All I need to know is which console you
have and your description of the problem which can be emailed to me direct at LBrown@xboxrepairservice.com or you
can fill out the submission form below. Please don't just mail anything in without contacting me first though as I don't
want anyone to waste any time or money on something I can't help with.
Xbox 360 and between $20-$30 for a PS3 and this will be included in the estimated price quote I give you via email
before I accept the console in for repair.
WARRANTY All repairs/replacements are warrantied for 6 months. That means the replaced or repaired part will
work perfectly when you get it back and will continue to do so for 6 months.
DIAGNOSIS IS A COMPLETELY FREE SERVICE Sometimes there's more damage than meets the eye I don't charge a
dime if you choose not to go ahead with the repair. This happens occasionally tand it's just the nature of the business.
TURNAROUND Turnaround time varies of course but most repairs are completed within 2-3 days of receipt unless it's
around Christmas which is nearer 10-12 days.
PAYMENTS Paypal handles all online payments, any standard debit/credit card will work and you don't have to have
an account with them at all, they just process the cards and eChecks for me same as any other merchant account. This
way nobody here has access to your financial information at any point, it's all handled 100% securely by them. Mailing
payment's fine too if you prefer - either along with the console or separately.
If you'd like me to handle your repair I'll be happy to do so if at all possible. All I need to know is which console you
have and your description of the problem which can be emailed to me direct at LBrown@xboxrepairservice.com or you
can fill out the submission form below. Please don't just mail anything in without contacting me first though as I don't
want anyone to waste any time or money on something I can't help with.
If your console hasn't been opened or worked on by anybody other than Microsoft and it
was purchased new less than three years ago you'll definitely want to give them a call and
check to see if they'll fix it for free. Their main number is 1-800-4MY-XBOX and they'll
want the serial number and what not off the console when you call. Remember though,
they'll ask if it's ever been dropped or exposed to liquids because if you say yes it voids the
warranty altogether. Assuming a warranty repair is no longer an option I'll be happy to
take care of it myself if possible but first you'll want to get an idea of what's wrong with it.
was purchased new less than three years ago you'll definitely want to give them a call and
check to see if they'll fix it for free. Their main number is 1-800-4MY-XBOX and they'll
want the serial number and what not off the console when you call. Remember though,
they'll ask if it's ever been dropped or exposed to liquids because if you say yes it voids the
warranty altogether. Assuming a warranty repair is no longer an option I'll be happy to
take care of it myself if possible but first you'll want to get an idea of what's wrong with it.
| |||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||||